FOOD Old City

FOOD Old City The odors of the Old City may not suggest a gourmet’s Mecca, but many eateries do make decent, cheap Middle Eastern food. Linda’s (on Via Dolorosa) serves excellent, hand-made hummus for NIS4. Around the corner, Abu Shukri (200m from Damascus Gate on Al-Wad Rd.) still serves his legendary hummus platters (NIS5). The daring can try the popular chicken restaurants on Khan az-Zeit (look for the huge rotisseries and follow the smell). Khan az-Zeit also drips with sugary-smelling shops selling honey-drenched Arab pastries for NIS3-5 per half-kilo. Fresh, large, soft sesame bagels can be bought from vendors throughout the souk; ask for za’atar, a pungent herb mix in which you can dip your bagel.

Abu Saif and Sons (tel. 28 68 12), just inside Jaffa Gate, beyond the tourist office. Don’t be put off by the tourist-infested location. Great chicken and a wide range of spicy Middle Eastern dishes (NISI 5). Hummus NIS4. Open 8am-8pm.

The Coffee Shop, near Jaffa Gate next to the Christ Church Hospice. The most pristine restaurant in the Old City, with lovely Jerusalem tiles decorating the tables and walls. Salad and bread NIS10. Open Mon.-Sat. 10am-6pm. Quarter Cafe (tel. 28 77 70), above the corner of Tife’eret Yisrael and HaSho’arim St., Jewish Quarter (look for the sign overhead). Thanks to the miracle of self-service, you can eat mousaka and take in an epic view of the Mount of Olives without spending a fortune. Salads and cakes NIS4-7, but expect to pay NIS30 for lunch. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-7pm, Fri. 8am-4pm. Kosher. 10% discount for Let’s Go users.