East Jerusalem

Although East Jerusalem may not look like a paragon of cleanliness, excellent and usually safe falafel and spicy kabab can be purchased from street vendors for less than NIS2. Nasser Eddin Bros, on Suleiman St., across from Damascus Gate and to the right, just past the bus station, stocks almost everything but fresh produce. (Open daily 8am-3pm.)

Salah ad-Din Street buzzes with restaurants open on Saturday. The following restaurants are open on Fridays and during Ramadan:

Abuzeid Oriental Sweets, Suleiman St. (tel. 27 50 52). A bakery with primarily Arab clientele. Baklava NIS20 per kilo. Tasty knaffeb NIS2 or NIS4 a plate. Open daily 8am-3pm, sometimes later.

Petra Restaurant, 11 Rashid St. (tel 28 36 55). Fancy dining room interior. Salads NIS2. Entrees NIS20-30. Complete meal US$15. Open daily noon-midnight. Manager-owner Abu Nasser may offer a 20% discount for Let’s Go users.