A part of the Cardo, Jerusalem’s main drag during Roman and Byzantine times, has been excavated and restored. The uncovered section is built over a Byzantine extension of Emperor Hadrian’s Cardo Maximus, which ran from Damascus Gate about as far south as David St. Archeologists suspect that Justinian constructed the addition so that the Cardo would extend to the Nea Church (beneath Yeshivat HaKotel). Sheltered by the Cardo’s vaulted roof are expensive gift shops and art galleries described on a sign as “a continuation of the existing bazaars.” (Hardly.) Neartrance to the Cardo, you can climb down to an excavated section of the Has-monean city walls and remains of buildings from the First Temple period. Farther ^°ng the Cardo is an enlarged mosaic reproduction of the Madaba map, the 6th-cen-toty plan of Jerusalem discovered in Jordan. After sunset the Cardo is open and illuminated until 11pm. of rreYishuv Court Museum, 6 Or haHayim St. (tel. 28 46 36), exhibits glimpsesWe in the Jewish Quarter before its destruction in 1948. To get here, walk up the at the southern end of the Cardo, cross over the Cardo on the steps to your left, and look left for the brown and tan sign pointing the way. Or turn left onto St. James St. from Armenian Patriarchate Rd. and follow the signs. (Open Sun.-Thurs, 9am-2pm. Admission NIS6, students NIS4.)

Across Jewish Quarter Rd. and on the left from the southern end of the Cardo, a single white stone arch soars above the ruins of the Hurva Synagogue. Built in 1700 by the followers of Rabbi Yehuda the Hasid, the synagogue was destroyed by Muslims 20 years later. In 1856, it was rebuilt as the National Ashkenazic Synagogue, only to be blown up by Jordan during the fighting of 1948. The Ramban Synagogue next door was named for Rabbi Moshe ben Nahman ("Ramban” is an acronym for his name; he is also known as Nahmanides). Over the years the building has served as a store, butter factory, and mosque. Displayed inside is a letter written by the rabbi describing the state ofjerusalem’s Jewish community in 1267, the year he arrived from Spain. (Open for morning and evening prayers.)