The Four Sephardic Synagogues (the synagogue of Rabbi Yohanan Ben-Zaklcai, that of Elijah the Prophet, the Central Synagogue, and the Istanbuli Synagogue) were built by Mediterranean Jews starting in the l6th century in accordance with a Muslim law that prohibited the construction of synagogues taller than the surrounding houses. To attain an aura of loftiness, these synagogues were cunningly built in large chambers deep underground. The current structure, though renovated, dates from 1835. The synagogues remain the spiritual center ofjerusalem’s Sephardic: community, with religious services held here every morning and evening. To reach the Sephardic Synagogues, walk south on Jewish Quarter Rd. almost to the parking lot, turn left onto HaTuppim St., then left again, and walk down the stone staircase. (Open Sun.-Mon. and Wed.-Thurs. 9:30am4pm, Tues. and Fri. 9:30am-12:30pm. Free.)

The ruins of the Tiferet Yisrael Synagogue, built by Hasidic Jews during the 19th century, also merit a visit. The synagogue was captured and destroyed by Jordan in 1948. Its upper portions have been covered with cement, making it look like a massive gray amoeba. The synagogue is on Tiferet Yisrael Rd., which begins at the northeastern corner of die courtyard behind the Hurva Synagogue, and is a favorite stop for tour guides wishing to evoke contempt for Jordan.