Even though the following stations-the destinations of millions of pilgrims-are all marked, they are nonetheless difficult to spot. At the third station, to the left on Al-Wad Rd., Jesus fell to his knees for the first time. A small Polish chapel marks the spot; a relief above the entrance depicts Jesus kneeling beneath the cross. At the fourth station, a few meters farther on the left, just beyond the Armenian Orthodox Patriarchate, a small chapel commemorates the spot where Jesus met his mother. Turn right on Via Dolorosa to reach the fifth station, where Simon the Cyrene volunteered to carry Jesus’ cross. Fifty meters farther, the remains of a small column mark the sixth station, where Veronica wiped Jesus’ face with her handkerchief. The imprint of his face was left on the cloth, which is now on display at the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate on the street of the same name.

The seventh station marks Jesus’ second fall-note the sudden steepness of the road here. In the first century, a gate to the countryside opened here, and tradition holds that notices of Jesus’ condemnation were posted on it. Crossing Khan az-Zeit, ascend Aqabat al-Khanqa and look beyond the Greek Orthodox Convent for the clothes hanger directing you to the stone and Latin cross that mark the eighth station. Here Jesus turned to the women who mourned him, saying “Daughters of Jerusalem, do not weep for me, weep rather for yourselves and for your children” (Luke 23:28). Backtrack to Khan az-Zcit, ascend die wide stone stairway on the right, and continue through a winding passageway to the Coptic church. The remains of a column in its door mark the ninth station, where Jesus fell a third time. Again retrace your steps to the main street and work your way through the market to the entrance of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where the Via Dolorosa ends.