St. Alexander’s Church, one block east of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre on Via Dolorosa, houses the Russian mission-in-exile. Prayers for Czar Alexander III arc held ever)’ Thursday at 7am (the only time the church is open). (Open Mon.-Sat. 9am-lpm and 3-5pm. Admission MSI.50; ring bell.) Across the street is the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer (tel. 28 25 43), entrance on Muristan St. Head up the narrow spiral staircase to its bell tower for a special vertigo experience. (Open Mon.-Sat. 9am-lpm and l:3O-5pm. English service Sun. 9am. Admission NISI, students NIS0.60.) The Greek Orthodox Patriarchate Museum (tel. 28 40 06), on the street of the same name, is a more recent addition to the Christian Quarter. Under the present Patriarch, Benedictos Papadopoulos, the scattered liturgical riches, gifts of pilgrims, and early printings of the Patriarchate’s 19th-century press have been arranged in a spacious, reconstructed Crusader building. (Open Tues.-Fri. 9am-3pm, Sat. 9arn-lpm. Admission NISI.)

Take a left from the Russian mission, another onto Khan az-Zeit St., and walk up the stairs to the left to reach the Ethiopian Monastery, located over part of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and open all day. The Ethiopians possess no part of the church itself, so they have become squatters on the roof. The modest compound is comprised of white buildings with green doors. Walk around and follow the “Please Watch Up Your Head” signs to the small but amazing church.