Armenian Quarterr

The Armenian Quarter, in the southwestern pan of the Old City near Mt. Zion. maintains a strong cultural identity despite modernization. Aramaic, the ancient language of the Talmud, is spoken both during services and in casual conversation at the Syrian Orthodox Convent on Ararat St. The Syrian Church believes this spot is the site of St. Mark’s house and the Last Supper, while most other Christians recognize the Cenacle on Mt. Zion as the hallowed place. To reach the convent, enter Jaffa Gate and walk along the Citadel onto Armenian Patriarchate Rd. Take a left onto St. James Rd. and another onto Ararat St. A vivid mosaic marks the door to the convent. You can visit during the afternoon; if the door is closed, ring the bell. The Armenian Compound, down Armenian Patriarchate Rd. past St. James Rd., is a city within a city, home to about 1000 Armenians and a slew of buildings closed to tourists.

Farther down Armenian Patriarchate Rd. on the left is the entrance to the Mardi-gian Museum, which chronicles the history of Armenia from the beginnings of its Christianization in 46 AD to the Turkish genocide of one and a half million Armenians in 1915. Follow the signs for the Armenian Museum. (Open Mon.-Sat. 10am-4:30pm. Admission NIS3, students NIS2.)

St. James Cathedral is open for services for a half-hour each day. The original structure was built during the 5th century AD, Armenia’s golden age, to honor two St. Jameses. The first martyred Apostle, St. James the Greater, was beheaded in 44 AD by Herod Agrippas. Under the gilded altar rests his head, which was supposedly delivered to Mary on the wings of angels. St. James the Lesser, entombed in a northern chapel, served as the first bishop of Jerusalem, but was run out of town by Jews who disliked his version of Judaism. Persians destroyed the cathedral in the 7th century, Armenians rebuilt it in the 1 lth century, and Crusaders enlarged it in the 12th. The entire church is decorated with lovely ceramic tiles-the Armenians make the tiled street signs for the entire Old City-and scores of chandeliers, hanging lamps, and censers. Pilgrims have left the votive crosses in the courtyard before the entrance; the oldest cross dates from the 12th century. Enter the cathedral from Armenian Patriarchate Rd.. just past St. James St. (Cathedral open for services daily 3-3:3Opm.)