A short distance up Nablus Rd., on Schick St., a sign points toward the Garden Tomb, noticed first by Otto Thenius in I860 and popularized by the British General Gordon. The garden is possibly Golgotha, the site of Christ’s crucifixion. The hill does indeed resemble a skull, and some claim that a nearby tomb is that of Joseph of Arimathea, who placed Jesus’ body in his own tomb after the crucifixion. (Open Mon.-Sat. 8am-12:15pm and 2:3O-5:l5pm, English service Sun. 9am.) As you continue along Nablus Rd., stop at St. George’s Cathedral, one of the least visited yel loveliest structures in Jerusalem. The cathedral houses modest collections of Palestinian embroidery and Dothan pottery.

Following Salah ad-Din St. up to where it intersects with Nablus Rd., look for the Tombeau des Rois sign on your right just before the intersection. The sign indicates the gate of the Tomb of the Kings. Judcan kings were originally thought to be buried here, but recent evidence shows that the tomb was in fact built in 45 AD by the Mesopotamian Queen Helena for her family. Bring along a candle or flashlight. (Open Mon.-Sat. 8am-12:30pm and 2-5pm. Admission NIS10, students NIS5.) A little further north up Nablus Rd. on the right is the elegant American Colony Hotel, one of the city’s most legendary establishments. Built in 1881 in a late Ottoman style, the hotel is particularly popular today with the foreign press. You may find a drink in the beautiful patio surprisingly affordable.