Further south are the neighborhoods of Talbiya (Qomemiyut) and Qatamon (Gonen), which still go by their old Arab names. The Arabs left in 1948, and the ornate villas (one of which was the childhood home of Columbia University professor Edward Said) became favorites of Hebrew University faculty and, more recently, well-to-do professionals. Martin Buber’s old house is the last one on the right on Hovevei Tzion St., one block south from Jabotinsky St. The official residence of the Israeli President is on HaNassi St., and the plush Jerusalem Theater is on the other side of the block on Chopin St.

Around the corner from HaNassi St. is the Mayer Institute for Islamic Art (tel. 66 12 91), 2 HaPalmah St., displaying a significant collection of miniatures, paintings, and artifacts from the Islamic world. Take bus #15 from the center of town. (Open Sun.-Mon. and Wcd.-Thurs. 10am-5pm, Tues. 4-8pm, Fri.-Sat. 10am-2pm. Admission NIS8, students NIS6, under 18 NIS2.50. Buy tickets for Saturday in advance.)