Before the Six-Day War, Ammunition Hill (Giv’at haTahmoshet; tel. 82 84 42) was Jordan’s most fortified strategic position in the city, commanding much of northern Jerusalem. Taken by Israeli troops in a bloody battle, the hill now serves as a memorial to the soldiers who died in the 1967 conflict. The somber, architecturally striking museum is housed in a reconstructed bunker and gives an account of the 1967 battle. Buses #4, 9, 25, and 28 let you off at the foot of the hill. (Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-5pm, Fri. 9am-lpm. Admission NLS6, children NIS3. Disabled access. Call in advance to arrange a showing of an informative English-language movie.)

After 1948, the Hebrew University of Jerusalem had to relocate from Mt. Scopus (Har haTzofim), where it had been founded in 1925, to the new campus in Giv’at Ram. Between 1948 and 1967, Mt. Scopus was a garrisoned Israeli enclave in Jordanian territory. After 1967, big parts of the university moved back to Mt. Scopus; renovations and massive construction have created the current fortress-like campus, more evocative of the trenches in nearby Giv’at haTahmoshet than the peaceful expanses of Giv’at Ram. Free guided tours of the campus in English depart from the Bronfman Visitors center in the Administration Building Sunday to Thursday at 11am. The Hecht Synagogue in the Humanities building, overlooking the Old City, is worth a visit; enter via the Sherman Building. The summit of Mt. Scopus, just north of the Mount of Olives, offers fabulous views of Jerusalem, while the university’s gorgeous amphitheater looks east to the Judean Desert and Jordan.