Bars

In the areas Hanking Jaffa Rd. east of Kikkar Tzion, and mostly on and off Heleni haMalka St. by the Russian Compound (Migrash haRussim), neon beer signs give a new glow to the crisp Jerusalem night air. After midnight, stylish bars in old stone buildings fill to capacity (and overflow into the street) with a young, trendy crowd-just when you thought Jerusalem wasn’t about fun. A Goldstar draught is NIS8-9 for a half-liter.

Glasnost, 15 Heleni haMalka St. (tel. 25 69 54), off Kikkar Tzion, toward the Russian Compound. Plays jazz and funk, with occasional live bands. Sit inside large interior or outside on patio under swooping palm trees. Beer NIS6-8, hard liquor NIS10-20. Also serves food; spaghetti, grilled cheese concoctions, burgers, cakes NISI2-22. Open 7pm-whenever.