Cheese Cake, 23 Yoel Salomon St. (tcl. 24 50 82), in a large garden on the second floor of an old house. NIS9 per slice of the eponymous product. This charming cafe also features sundaes (NIS16.50), an “obscene Brownie” with ice cream, whipped cream, and chocolate sauce (NIS14.5O), and the “Monster” Sundae (NIS38) with S scoops of ice cream plus assorted toppings. Extensive sandwich and salad menu NIS10.50-28. (Open Sun.-Thurs. 7:3Oam-midnight, Fri. 7:30am-sundown, Sat. sundown-midnight. Kosher.)

Cafe Akrai, A.M. Luntz St. (tel. 25 40 01), between Jaffa Rd. and Ben-Yehuda St. It’s the first cafe on the left coming from Jaffa Rd.; the sign is difficult to spot. Caters to young, chic Israelis. Also popular with gay men and lesbians. Meatless menu; all food homemade. Pasta NIS23, sandwiches NIS13-17. live jazz Thurs. and Fri. afternoons. Desserts NISI 1-22. Danish pastries NIS5. Open daily 7:30am-2am.

HaMizraka Tea House, 12 Yoel Salomon St. (tel. 25 52 22). Serves 24 different kinds of tea (NIS6 per pot) as well as assorted snacks in a candle-lit, cushion-clad cave. Open Sun.-Thurs. 7pm-lam, Fri. and Sat. 9pm-lam.