For an inexpensive meal, try Kiosk Madar (sign in Hebrew, but hard to miss the line), a local hole-in-the-wall favorite at the corner of Rothschild St. and Mohliever St., where the street begins after the pedestrian mall (falafel NIS3.5O). For reasons unknown to locals, Rishon leTzion is blessed with its very own Ben and Jerry’s ice cream, at 75 Herzl St., conveniently located one block south of the central bus station (two measly scoops NIS4.90. Open Sun.-Sat. lOam-midnight.)

Bus #200, running from Tel Aviv to Rehovot, stops in Rishon en route. The 15-20 minute ride from Tel Aviv costs NIS3.30 (NIS3 from Rehovot). The Rishon leTzion bus station is on Herzl St.