Migdal is also the site of the new Ashkelon Museum (tel. 73 24 12), built in an old caravansary at the corner of Eli Cohen and Herzl St. on the Khan mosque. The museum traces the history of Ashkelon from Roman times to the present. (Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-lpm and 4-6pm, Fri. 9am-lpm, Sat. lOam-lpm. Free.) Ashkelon has six beaches, including a religious one (where men and women bathe separately), most with lifeguards and facilities. For fun in the water-sans sand-there’s the Ashkeluna water park near Delila Beach (tel. 73 99 70). It’s the biggest water park in the Middle East and Ashkelon’s newest and cheesiest attraction. NIS27 covers a full day of splashy fun. Open daily 9am-5pm.

Bars, movies, crowds, and beaches all contribute to the wild world of Ashkelon nightlife. There are two bars located near Afridar Center. Style (tel. 73 43 25) is the most popular local haunt. Its appeal lies in a stocked bar and a policy of “anything but Middle Eastern music". At Bayit HaKafri (the Village House, tel. 73 10 54), just across the green from Style, drinks are affordable and bands perform every Tuesday and Thursday evening, attracting a slightly younger crowd.