A cheaper option is Pizza Hut, David haMelekh St., a half-block from Ha’Atzma’ut Sq. Set in a beautifully landscaped park, Hut patrons can watch the sunset over the water through the floor-to-ceiling windows. (Small pizza NIS14-22.) Farther north down Nitza Blvd. (bus #29, cab, or 40-min. walk), you will eventually hit Blue Bay Beach, where you’ll find Hofeya (tel. 62 31 41).

Turn left towards the beach just before the Blue Bay Hotel, on the left hand side of the road. At high tide, the waves of the Mediterranean crash up against the windows of this delightful restaurant/pub. The main dishes are a bit expensive (fish NIS3540), but you can enjoy the spectacular scenery for the price of a dessert (NIS5-10). Live singers perform Thursday-Saturday nights. (Open 24 hrs.; Sept.-May daily noon-4am.) Patisserie Antverpia at 1 Eliyahu Krause St- (tel. 33 53 90), one block south of Herzl St. off Smilansky St., serves fresh halkih and luscious cream pastries at slightly lower prices than its tourist-district counter-Parts. (Open Sun.-Fri. 7:30am-9pm.)