Ein Hod

En Hod (Hebrew for “Spring of Grandeur") was originally Ein Houd (Arabic for “Spring of Garden Rows"), an Arab village of 670 people located on a hill on the western slopes of Mt. Carmel. Earlier, the town also served as a resort for Crusaders based at the nearby Atlit fortress. In 1948 the Arab inhabitants fled from the Israeli forces to the south; in 1953 the deserted village was transformed into an artist colony, established by Marcel Janco, one of the founders of the Dadaist art movement. Within this village of studios, artists create everything from traditional needle crafts to abstract paintings. Bronze sculptures grace backyards, mobiles swing between trees, and stone figures recline against fences. Most of the Arab homes are still intact, and the view of the Mediterranean undoubtedly inspires the muse.

Although studios are closed to casual visitors, the large Ein Hod Gallery (tel. (04) 84 25 48), a village cooperative, exhibits the work of over 75 artists and craftsper-sons. (Open Sat.-Thurs. 930am-5pm, Fri. 9:30am-4pm.) Next to the gallery is the Janco-Dada Museum (tel. 84 23 50 or 84 31 52), where works of the late artist are on permanent display. (Open Sun.-Thurs. and Sat. 9:30am-5pm, Fri. 9:30am4pm. Admission NIS5, students NIS3.) The small amphitheater at the village center hosts Friday evening concerts ranging from rock to classical music. Call (04) 84 33 77 or check local newspapers for listings. Walk up the steps to a new cafe to experience the culinary work of the village artists. (Quiches and cakes NIS5-10.)

Ein Hod is 14km south of Haifa. To get there, take bus #202 or 921 from Haifa heading south along the old Haifa-Hadera road (20min., NIS4.80). From the Ein Hod junction where the bus lets you off, the town is a 2km walk uphill (20min. up, 1 Omin. down). To get to the center of Ein Hod, turn right when you reach the colorful sign welcoming you to the village.