Orientation

Haifa, Israel’s principal port and the departure and destination point of all passenger ferries, is situated on the Mediterranean coast about 100km south of the Lebanese border and due west of the Sea of Galilee. Don’t be fooled by flat maps: there is a 300m elevation drop between the Carmel Center and the port, most successfully negotiated by the Carmelit, Haifa’s one-line subway. The bustling downtown around the port has small stores and outdoor stands. To the west of the port on the same level is the central bus station, and behind it, connected by a tunnel, the train station.

Higher up the mountain is the Hadar district, home to many businesses, cafes, bakeries, and moderately priced hotels; once the city’s showcase, it has declined in recent years in favor of shopping malls and the more elegant Carmel Center, on top of the mountain, characterized by posh homes, five-star hotels, observation points, restaurants, and discos. Outside this main axis, served by the Carmelit, Haifa is a vast sprawl of residential areas crisscrossed by dramatic valleys. The Haifa central bus station can be confusing. like the city, the station has three tiers. Arriving out-of-town buses generally drop off passengers on the third level. Local buses depart from the side facing the mountain, with Egged Information located in the center. Out-of-town buses depart from the lowest level, where the restrooms, luggage storage, and municipal information booth are located.