The city walls originally encompassed the entire harbor, but all that remains is the mined Tower of the Flies, the site of the original lighthouse, solemnly brooding in the middle of the bay. The original fortifications were toppled by a devastating earthquake in 1837. At the eastern comer near the shoreline yawns the so-called Land Gate, once the only entrance to the city.

The only part of Akko’s new town of interest to tourists is Hof Argaman (Purple Beach; tel. 91 16 72 or 91 15 30), which isn’t actually purple (the reference is to a type of snail found here). (Open June-Oct. 8am-4pm. Admission NIS5, students NIS4.) To get to Hof Argaman, follow Yonatan HaHashmonai St. from the Land Gate south along the coast for about 10 minutes, taking the detour around the naval school. The only hotels in the new town, the Argaman and the Palm Beach, dominate the beach. Past the Palm Beach Hotel is a free beach just as fine as Hof Argaman but without lifeguards. Just outside the Land Gate, at the less attractive Hof haHo-mot (open 7am-6pm, admission NIS5), sailboards are available for NIS10 per hour. None of the several hundred swimmers seem to notice the “bathing prohibited7′ %ns (posted in three languages). There’s a changing room through the low door opposite the beach entrance.