The Nahariya Municipal Museum, in the Municipality Building near the bus terminal, has exhibits on art, the archeology of Western Galilee, malacology (sea-shells), the history of Nahariya, and Central European Jewry. (Open Sun. and Wed. lOam-noon and 4-6pm, Mon.-Tues. and Thurs.-Fri. 8am-noon. Free.) An ornate mosaic floor is all that remains of a 4th-century Byzantine church (tel. 92 21 21), on Bielefeld St. near the Katzenelson School. Inquire at the tourist office to arrange for a visit (open dairy 9-1 lam; free).

Nahariya’s ration d’etre remains, predictably, tanning and swimming. The main beach is the crowded Galei Galil, featuring a lifeguard and a breakwater. Walk down HaGa’aton Blvd. and turn right at the end (open 8am-6pm; Sept.-June 8am-5pm,; admission NIS10). The 10 shekels cover admission to the heated indoor pool (open year-round), the Olympic-size outdoor pool, and the kiddy pools. The pools and beach are clean, the bathrooms not as clean. All facilities are jammed on Saturdays. South of Galei Galil is a free beach without a breakwater. Local kids surf here ^ith the same lunatic exuberance that makes driving in Israel such fun. Thank God surfboards don’t have horns. Farther south is a free municipal beach.

Horse-drawn carriage rides start from the post office and the eastern end of j HaGa’aton; follow your nose and the tell-tale signs horses have a way of leaving i behind (!4hr., 8-10 people, NIS2O). The Hod Cinema (tel. 92 05 02), on Herzl across] from the market, often shows movies in English, as does the Hekhal haTarbout (tel 92 79 35) on Ha’Atzma’ut Rd.

What nightlife Nahariya has starts fairly late on Friday and Saturday nights, with! options for every budget. A local favorite is BK Pub, across from the bus station onl HaGa’aton (enter from the side at the intersection with Ha’Atzma’ut St.). Makoml Batayelet and its neighbor Mull Hayam are two oceanside pubs (turn left where! HaGa’aton meets the sand). And for big spenders, or those who can make friends] with locals (they all seem to get in free), there’s dancing at the CaHton Hotel disco,] also on HaGa’aton. (Admission normally NIS25.)