Rosh haNikra

Although Lebanon, one of the world’s most war-torn nations, hovers too close for] comfort, Rosh haNikra’s spectacular white chalk cliffs and caves remain open to] tourists. When you descend into the serene beauty of the grottos, it’s easy to forget the Israeli border station and patrols overhead. Rosh HaNikra’s cool caves have been sculpted by millennia of lashing waves. These natural grottos were enlarged when a j tunnel, originally designed as a train route between Haifa and Beirut, was dug through the cliffs by the British during World War II.

The nearby kibbutz, seeing the potential for tourism, blasted additional tunnels] through the rock to improve access to the sea caves and topped the cliffs with anj observation point and cafeteria. The highway from Nahariya ends at the observation! point, making the cable car the only way down to the caves. (Tel, 85 71 08; operates] Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-6pm, Fri. 8:30am-4pm; in July and Aug. 8:30am-l0pm; in winter 8:30am-4pm; admission NISI8, students NI516.) Buses #20 and 22 make the trip! from Nahariya to Rosh haNikra (NIS4.5O) at 9:15am, 11:30am. and 2:30pm. ThJ buses return to Nahariya at 9:40am, 11:55am, and 3pm. (Translation: you either] have too much time or too little.) Other buses run from Nahariya to the junction, but require a 3km walk uphill to the cable cars. A taxi from Nahariya may be willing! to take you sherut to the junction (NIS4), special to the site (NIS10).

Arrive early, since coach tours and youth groups often spelunk in the afternoon. The worse the weather, the better the show at Rosh haNikra-waves pound against] the natural caverns, forming powerful cross-currents and whirlpools and echoing thunderously through the subterranean tunnels. If you decide to take an illegal dip ] and risk joining the legions of ghostly swimmers on the sea floor, take care not tdl venture out into the waters to the north; this border is a site and source of much I conflict-beyond it is, at least officially, an enemy country (actually, Israel’s self-| declared “security 2one” in Southern Lebanon)-and the guards have no sympathy for even the most accidental tourists. The desolate beach south of Rosh haNikra, on I the other hand, is rumored to be a favorite of some nudists.