Akhziv Anax

Akhziv beach (tel. 82 39 88), which begins about 4km north of Nahariya, is popular (and populated), with showers, shade, changing rooms, and kiosk (open 8am-2am; j admission NIS7, students NIS5). Two roads lead to the beach: the paved road along j the coast which ends here, and the unpaired, noncoastal road on which buses stop, j The historical heart of the area is the Akhziv National Park (tel. 82 32 63), with its sprawling lawns and sheltered beach (complete with showers and changing rooms), on the remains of an 8th-century Phoenician port town. (Park open daily i 8am-7pm.

Admission NIS9.50, students NIS7.) Bordering the park on its southern side is a Club Med; on the northern side is Akhzivland, a self-proclaimed independent state founded in 1952 by the wonderfully eccentric Eli Avivi, who leased the land from an unamused Israeli government. An eye-catching figure in his flowing : robes, Avivi is unforgettable-particularly when kvetchy customs officials try to fig- jre out the “Akhzivland” stamp on your passport. Eli’s Museum (tel. 82 32 50), housed in a deteriorated but striking Arab mansion, exhibits the benevolent dictator’s extensive and esoteric collection of implements, statue fragments, and maps, niostly from the Phoenician period. (Open daily 24 hrs.; admission NIS5-) Steeping jflside the dilapidated camping area costs NIS25, in one of Eli’s newly constructed guest rooms, NIS42. Parking and beach admission included.