Beit Natan, on Jerusalem St. (tel. 92 01 21) south of GTIO, by the Davidka monument. Houses university students during the school year but open to tourists from july-Aug. Doubles NIS100.

Bear in mind that many places in Tzfat shut down on Shabbat; if you don’t shop before Friday afternoon, you’ll starve. The stretch of Jerusalem St. north of the bridge (to #48) is lined with good, cheap falafel stands and expensive sit-down restaurants. Despite its dubious name, California Falafel, 92 Jerusalem St., next to the HaPalmah St. bridge, fries great falafel (NIS4.50; open weekdays 9am-I0pm, Fri. until 3pm; kosher).

HaMifgash Restaurant (tel. 92 05 10 or 97 47 34), 75 Jerusalem St., just opposite the small observation point and park, serves stupendous food in a homey stone cavern. Shtsblik, kabab, or hamburgers about NIS25. (Open Sun.-Fri. 9am-l lpm. Kosher.) The Steakiat haSela, 88 Jerusalem St. (no English sign), a tiny grill two doors west of the bridge, has some of the best sbwartna in the country, served in pita with monogrammed salads (NIS7). The Organic Cafe (te!. 92 18 66), in Kikkar Hameganin in the old Jewish quarter (turn right at the end of the steps from the plaza next to the Municipality building) has innovative health foods like tofu vegetable quiche (with salad NIS7.5O) and carob brownies (NIS3). Open July-Aug. Sun.-Thurs. 9am-10pm, Fri. 9am-2pm.

A fruit and vegetable market is held Tuesdays and Wednesdays 6am-2pm, next to the bus station. There are supermarkets in the new shopping complex on the Jerusalem St. midrehov, above the bus station and in the Artists’ Colony on the way to the Rinion Inn (open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-7pm, Fri. 8am-2pm).