The Caro Synagogue and Ha’AM (Ashkenazi) Synagogue are the most famous synagogues. To reach the Caro Synagogue, take Ma’alot Oleh haGardom St. off Jerusalem St. and make a right onto Beit Yosef St. Ask to see the remarkable set of old; books and Torah scrolls. It was here that Yosef Caro, chief rabbi of Tzrat and author of the vast Shulban Arukh ("The Set Table,” an extensive and standard guide for daily life according to Jewish law), studied and taught in the 16th century. In the basement is the angel with whom he used to confer (Rabbi Alkabetz purportedly witnessed their talks).

These days, the angel prefers not to be disturbed. To reach Ha’Ari Synagogue, follow Beit Yosef until it becomes Alkabetz St., make a right up a stairway with stained glass Stars of David above, and continue straight under the stone arch. The synagogue will be to your right on Najara St. Rabbi Isaac Luria was the great Kabbalist who introduced the Kabbalat Shabbat, an arrangement of prayers in preparation for the Sabbath; Alkabetz, his student, wrote the famous liturgical hymn Lekha Dodi. The four pillars that buttress the podium in the middle of the room symbolize the four elements of the world (air, fire, water, and earth) and the four holy cities (Tzfat, Jerusalem, Tiberias, and Hebron).