If you continue straight on the main road instead of turning left to the Good Fence, you’ll come to the small Nahal Ayun Nature Reserve (tel. 95 15 19) with a picnic area. Through the gate and down the stone steps is a path to one of the reserves waterfalls. To reach the Ayun Stream, continue walking south past the brown sign in the picnic area, through the apple groves; the path will lead you to the riverbed beyond which lies Grandmother’s house. Unfortunately, in the summer the falls and river run dry, except for a few stagnant pools. (Reserve open Satyrs. 8am-5pm, Fit 8am-4pm; closes lhr. earlier in winter. Admission NIS6.)

Further down the stream, south of Metulla, set back from the road, the cool fountain air is moistened with mist from the Tanur Waterfall. With the 18m drop, ^e density of mist creates the illusion of billowing smoke: tanur means “oven.” The ift magnificent in the snow-melting season, slows to a trickle after June. The Tanur, J? the southern part of the Ayun reserve, is also accessible directly by bus #20 from ^Tat Shmona; ask to be dropped at the turn-off to the waterfall. From there, it’s a ^e-minute walk to the park.

Israelis head to Metulla’s new Canada Centre (tel. 95 03 70), one of the toprts facilities in Israel and home of its only genuine ice-skating rink.