Controversy still simmers over the Heights. Syria claims that the land was seized by an illegal act of aggression and insists on the return of the territory. Israel blames the 1967 war on Arab aggression, and counters that Syria’s possession of the Golan Heights would pose an intolerable threat to northern Israeli towns. The current Israeli Labor-led government, however, more than hinted its willingness to strike a land-for-peace deal with the Syrians in the ongoing peace negotiations, sounding serious enough to enrage right-wing opposition and Israelis living on the Golan. The response was an urgent protest campaign, trying to turn Israeli public opinion against any territorial concessions.

For Israelis, politics aside, the Golan is usually associated with bottled spring water, crisp apples, and the tine wines of the Golan Wineries. For the tourist, this surprisingly flat plateau, dotted with dead volcanos and old mine fields, has a fair share of noteworthy natural and archeological sights.