Relatively few cars traverse the Golan, and some are driven by people with whom wouldn’t want to spend too much time. There have been reports of attacks in Lcent years, making hitching a phenomenally bad idea. If, despite all this, you are; foolhardy enough to set out on your own, be sure to take a good map, a sizable witter bottle, and at least a days worth of food.

Stay on the paved roads, away from leftover Syrian land mines hidden in barren fields. Any fenced-off area should be avoided whether or not there are warning signs. Despite seasonal minesweeping, tne Golan is still Uttered with the toe- and leg-chomping critters. Hike on marked trails only and avoid fields, fenced areas, or anything that looks suspicious. Heed the warning signs, which are yellow with a red triangle and read “Danger” above Hebrew writing. The Ministry of Tourism strongly suggests that visitors to the Golan start from the field school in Katzrin to get maps and information. Many hapless tourists have been known to stray into mine-laden fields, only to be picked up by unamused army personnel.

Organized tours of the area are faster, more convenient, and sometimes less expensive in the long run; however, they can be rushed and usually do not allow any time for hiking or swimming. Egged (March-Oct., tel. (06) 79 10 80 or 72 04 74) offers full-day tours of the region from Tiberias on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, and provides an excellent overview of the Upper Galilee and Golan Heights region (US$26, 10% discount with ISIC). From March to October there is also a day tour from Tel Aviv (tel. (03) 527 1212 or 37 55 88) on Thursday and Saturday (US$48). Day tours from Haifa (tel. (04) 62 31 31 or 54 94 87) are also available on Sunday, Thursday, and Saturday (USS42).