Gamla

For years all that was known about the lost city of Gamla was its legend as told by the first-century historian Josephus. Somewhere in the Golan existed the remains of an ancient town whose defenders heroically resisted the Roman army during the Great Rebellion, then chose martyrdom (The Jewish War, Book IV, ch. 1). After the Six-Day War, archeologists had the opportunity to scour the area for a spot corresponding to ancient descriptions of the city.

Eventually, Shmaryahu Gutman, who claims to have worked with a copy of The Jewish War in hand, found the site: 15km southeast of modern Katzrin, on the high escarpments encircling a ridge crowned by the ruins of Gamla, lay a battlefield missing only the Roman legions. The only access to its walls is via a narrow strip of land connecting it with the higher surrounding ridges. The peak, when viewed from a certain angle, resembles a camel’s hump-hence gamla, a corruption of the Hebrew gamal (camel).

At this site some 2000 years ago, the Romans laid siege to the religious city of Gamla, which was packed with 9000 Jews seeking refuge. After a siege lasting many Months, Romans on the nearby hills led the attack down the corridor of land leading to the city. When the legion managed to penetrate Gamla’s walls, hordes of Jews were found fleeing up the ridge. The Romans followed, and on the steep trails beyond the confines of the town, the Jews suddenly turned and massacred the legionnaires. Weeks later, a second attack proved too much for the Jews to withstand. Rather than become Roman slaves, they, like the Jews of Masada, chose death and hurled themselves over the ridge’s steep rock face. Only two women survived; Don’t miss the film about Gamla at the Golan Archeological Museum.

Getting to Gamla is tricky without a car. If you catch a ride with a group from the field school you’ll also benefit from the guided tour. Otherwise, try to get a ride from Katzrin and walk lkm to the ridge overlooking the ruins. The descent to the ruins along the Roman route takes about 15 minutes, but give yourself time to clamber about the town. An archeoiogists’ camp at the entrance to the ruins was closed down in summer 1993, but if the diggers have returned, politely ask someone to show you around. (Site open Sat.-Thurs. 8am-5pm, Fit 8anv4pm. Admission NIS8.) If you continue on the path past the ruins, you’ll reach a lookout point over Mapal Gamla, Israel’s highest waterfall. The falls are more impressive than the ruins. The path continues above the falls, terminating at the ruins (3hrs.).