The community claims to have evidence that the ancestors of black slaves in antebellum America lived in Israel until they were forced to migrate to Western Africa after the onslaught of the Romans in 70 AD. The group’s first vanguard returned to the Holy Land in 1969, under the leadership of their spiritual guide Ben Animi. When the Israeli government refused to grant them citizenship unless they converted to Judaism, the Black Hebrews insisted that they could not convert because they were already Jews. Community leaders are currently negotiating with the Israeli government to try to improve their legal status in Israel.

To visit the Hebrew Village (tel. (057) 55 54 00), continue walking from the central bus station along Herzl St. for about 10 minutes and enter on your left. The community leaders prefer that you call ahead so that they will be abie to arrange a tour for you, take you to their restaurant (strict dietary restrictions prohibit the community’s members from eating any meat or dairy products, fish, foul, eggs, white sugar or white flour; open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-l lpm; sandwiches cost NIS5) or to their boutique (open Sun.-Thurs. 10am-l :30pm and 4-9pm) where they sell handcrafts as well as books and tapes about their beliefs. Off the beaten track indeed.