Bethlehem

Bethlehem (Beit Lahm in Arabic, Beit Lehem in Hebrew) is the biblical setting for Rachel’s death, the love of Ruth and Boaz, and the discovery of the lyrical shepherd David, future king of Israel. But what really put Bethlehem on the pilgrimage map was the pastoral birth of Jesus. Today, biblical charm remains hidden behind fleets of tour buses unloading blue-haired Christian zealots in front of souvenir stands; try to peel off, in your mind’s eye, the layers of commercialism to enjoy the town’s liis-torical aura and the beauty of its surroundings.

Bethlehem has been less than pastoral since the outbreak of the intifada. More than 32 Bethlehem residents have been killed, often by the Israeli army, and the first Israeli casualty of the intifada was stabbed here. Since the city relies heavily upon tourism, Bethlehem has been hardest hit by commercial strikes; the masses who flood Manger Square nowadays are but a fraction of the pre-intifada crowds, which means tourists (and any of their financial benevolence) are more than ever welcome here. Churches still hold Christmas and Easter services, and events sponsored by the Bethlehem municipality, including the annual parade from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, continue to take place.