Al-Andalus Hotel (tel. 74 13 48), in Manger Sq. upstairs next to the Bank Leumi. If door’s bolted, just knock or ask for the owner at one of the shops downstairs. Green, green rooms with green, yellow bedspreads. Singles with bath US$21. Doubles with bath US$31. Breakfast included. Bargain down winter price hikes.

St. Joseph’s Home, Manger St. (tel. 74 24 97), 0.5km north of Manger Sq., up Manger St. just past Hamburger House. The sign over the door promises “love and peace.” For groups of 10 or more; no rooms for solo travelers. Singles US$12, breakfast included. Half board US$20. Full board US$25Palace Hotel, Manger St. (tel. 74 27 98 or 74 41 00), to the left as you face the Basilica door. Trees, garden, and clean rooms. Newly renovated. A good deaL better with bargaining. Safe provided. Singles US$20. Doubles US$40. Breakfast buffet included.