Franciscan Convent Pension, Milk Grotto St. (tel. 74 24 41), on your left past the Milk Grotto. Charming rooms overlook a barren valley. Ilfaut que vous parlez francais. Curfew 9pm. Bed and breakfast US$18. Dorm beds US$15. Possibility of floor space at holiday time.

For falafel fans and transportation fiends, the stands in Manger Sq. and on Manger St.offer the cheapest stomach-stuffers and the most accurate information on bus departures. Be warned: tourists may be charged slightly higher prices than those listed; try bargaining. The Al-Atlal Restaurant, one block from Manger Sq. on Milk Grotto St.,contains neo-Crusader arches and a few crusty farm implements. Hummus with r meat is NLS15, and a hamburger or omelette with salad and potatoes is NIS10. -Another option is the Granada Bar and Restaurant (tel. 74 43 00), on the same side [ of Manger Sq. as Bank Leumi. Shaded outdoor tables with an unobstructed view of the square. Shwarma platter is NIS6, falafel NIS4, juice NIS2.5O. Or try the Quick, Lunch, Sandwiches shop right next door (sandwiches NIS6). The only food available later at night is at the Palace Hotel Coffee Shop (open 9am-midnight. Salad bar NIS6).