A five-minute walk from the Basilica of the Nativity down Milk Grotto St. heads to the Milk Grotto Church (tel. 14 24 25). The cellar here is thought to be the cave where the Holy Family hid while fleeing from Herod into Egypt The cave and church take their names from the original milky white color of the rocks, long since blackened by candle smoke. According to legend, some of Mary’s milk fell while she was nursing the infant Jesus, whitewashing the rocks forever. Male visitors may be slightly discomfited amid the women who come here to pray for fertility. (Open daily 8am-T 1:30am and 2pm-5pm.) Ring the bell and wait for a monk to admit you.

About 0.5km north of Manger Sq. along Star St., the three unremarkable restored cisterns of the Well of David (tel. 14 24 77; open daily 8am-noon and 2-5pm) squat in the parking lot of the King David Cinema. When a thirsty David, wliile battling the Philistines, was brought water from the enemy’s well, he in turn offered it as a sacrifice to God (H Samuel 23:13-17). From Star St., turn right onto King David St.

The Tomb of Rachel (Rahel) is a sacred site for Jews, A spot where synagogues have been built and destroyed throughout history. On one side are fervently praying Hasidic men, and on the other weeping Yemenite women. Rachel died in Bethlehem while giving birth to Benjamin (Genesis 35:19-20), and she became a timeless symbol of maternal devotion and suffering.