Ancient Jericho, thought by some to be the oldest city in the world, is now a heap of ruined walls. Called Tel as-Sultan, the mound contains layer upon layer of garbage from ancient (and modem) cities. The oldest fortifications, 12m down, are 7000 years old. Some of the finds date from the early Neolithic period, leading archeologists to suspect that Jericho was inhabited as early as the eighth millennium BC. A limited amount of excavation has exposed many levels of ancient walls, some of them 3.5m thick and 5.5m high. Your imagination will have to substitute for visible splendor at this distinctly unphotogenic site (tel. 92 29 09; open daily, 8am-5pm. Admission NIS7.50, students NIS5).

An imposing Greek Orthodox monastery stands on the edge of a cliff among the mountains west of Jericho; the peak is believed to be the New Testament’s Mount of Temptation. The complex of buildings stands before a grotto, said to be the spot where Jesus fasted for 40 days and 40 nights after his baptism in the Jordan River (Matthew 4:1-11). Six Greek monks now live in the monastery, built in 1895. Ask one to point out the rock where Jesus was tempted by the devil and served by angels. The road to the monastery heads past the shops near ancient Jericho.

The summit of the mountain, named Qarantal after the Latin word for “forty,” also serves as a pedestal for the Maccahean Castle of Dok, beside which lie the remains of a 4th-century Christian chapel. (Monastery open daily 7am-noon. Modest dress required.)