Practical Information and Food

Palestinians here carefully distinguish between Israelis and tourists; refer again to the beginning of the West Bank section for safety tips.Visitors should make an effort to be respectful of Muslim traditions. Stay in central areas such as King David St. and the area around the Cave of Makh-pela. If you do get lost, look it-many young Palestinians in Hebron love to practice their English by giving long-winded directions. Leave Hebron well before sunset. Don’t even think about investigating the nightlife. Before you come, check the security situation in the newspapers, at your consulate, the GTIO, and the Office of Visitor Information (212 Jaffa Rd., Jerusalem). You cannot be too careful. If you encounter stone-hurling youths, try your best not to run; running away frantically only justifies to them their original suspicions.

Located 35km south of Jerusalem on the road to Be’er Sheva, Hebron is the only urban center on the West Bank south of Bethlehem. Egged buses #34, 440, and 443 (NIS9) come from the Jerusalem central bus station and stop in the main square in front of the Cave of Makhpela after stopping in the Kiryat Arba settlement. Buses run until dark. Arab bus #23 (NIS3), which runs frequently from Damascus Gate, will drop you in the city center, where King Faisal, King David, and Khalil ar-Rah-man St. converge. From here, a 1-km walk along King David Street brings you to the tombs; follow the signs east to the Cave of Makhpela. Service taxis shuttle between Jerusalem’s Jaffa and Damascus Gates and Hebron’s King David St., near the cave and the old market. Taxis cost three times as much (NIS4.5O) but are faster and run until about 7pm. The last Arab bus for Jerusalem departs at about 5:45pm from King Faisal St., just outside the city center, but think twice about staying that late.

Most of the town’s services, including the Bank Leumi, post office (open Sat.-Wed. 8am-2:30pm, Fri. 8am-12:30pm), hospital (tel. 96 21 26/7), and police station (tel. 96 14 44) are also located on King Faisal.

You will be able to purchase food at the markets; in the summer season, be sure to try the variety of locally grown grapes (’anab). As-Sayyid Restaurant and Sweets sells wonderful honey-drenched pastries (NIS1-2) just around the corner from the main square. For the gastronomically adventurous, catch a shared taxi (NISI) to Al-Wafa on Ras al-Jura, by the glass factories. Try the fresh-off-fhe-carcass lamb baked in a traditional clay oven (US$8, but try to bargain).