In 686 AD Muslims took over and added a mosque. In 1103 the Crusaders conquered Hebron and promptly transformed the mosque into a church. As the pattern continued, the Crusaders were driven out and the Mamluks added the current mosque and two square minarets. Until 1929, Jews were allowed to stand and pray, but were permitted to ascend only as far as the seventh step, the level of the holy grotto. The Israelis have now dug the steps away, thereby removing the symbol of their former second-class status. Today, despite political tensions, both Jews and Muslims pray under the same roof.

In the small synagogue large cenotaphs commemorate Jacob and Leah. Across the courtyard, in a second synagogue, two huge boxes covered with elaborate calligraphy stand above the tombs of Abraham and Sarah. The actual remains lie 18m below, within the Cave of Makhpela. A locked trap-door in the mosque leads down to the cave itself. Oil is lowered in to keep the candles burning in the cave. To find the final duo, pass through the synagogue in the Great Mosque, where the cenotaphs of Isaac and Rebecca each occupy a small hut. In the small adjoining women’s mosque (on your left as you leave the courtyard) is a window containing a stone with an undistinguished imprint. Supposedly, this is Adam’s footprint, made when he came here after expulsion from Eden.

Upon entering, male visitors should don a paper kipah, available at the top of the staircase. Women may be asked to cover their hair with the furnished scarves. Modest dress is required for both sexes. (Open all day. Mosques closed to non-Muslims during the five prayer times, Muslim holidays, and Friday. Passage through the surrounding hallways and synagogues is permitted when the mosques are closed. Synagogues closed to non-Jews on Saturday and Jewish holidays.)