Ramallah

Just 16km north of Jerusalem, at 900m above sea level, Ramallah is famous for its cool, pleasant mountain air. Before 1967, the prosperous town was known as the “Bride of Palestine,” a summer haven for Arabs from Jordan, Lebanon, and the Gulf region. With vacationers long since gone, Ramallah has assumed in recent years a leading role in intifada politics. While definitely calm compared to Nablus or Hebron, Ramallah is still a town in the West Bank, where tranquility is a relative measure.

Palestinians in Ramallah live up to ideas of Arab generosity. A visibly confused tourist will soon be surrounded by people offering countless solutions; absence of street signs will put you in this position faster than you think. Use the opportunity to strike up a conversation, improve your Arabic, and gain an insight into the Palestinian perspective on the latest events. The town is among the least conservative in the West Bank; women can go in pants and a t-shirt.

Although all hotels and hostels are currently closed, and there are few noteworthy tourist sites in Ramallah, the town is stili equipped to amuse and entertain. Visit the ebullient market (except on strike days, open Sat.-Thurs. until 3pm, Fri. until noon) next to the bus station or walk around the houses away from the city center. The Silvana Chocolate Company, 1,5km down Jaffa Blvd. from Manara Sq., opens its doors to tourists, offering countless free samples. (Open Mon.-Sat. 7:30am4pm, Call 95 64 58 to arrange a tour.)