Practical Information If the political situation improves, the Pension Miami (tel. 95 28 08) on Jaffa Rd. may reopen. You can find good falafel (NISI.5). shwarma (NIS4), and an excellent variety of Arabic sweets throughout the town. For a real treat, stop by Rukab’s Ice Cream (tel. 95 24 67) on Ein Misbah St. for some freshly made ice cream (NIS3.5) or a glass of cold lemonade (NIS2).

Since the March 1993 closure of the West Bank, Ramallah has become a transportation hub for Arabs unable to get into East Jerusalem. As long as this is still in effect, you can go from here directly to most West Bank towns by service taxis. From Jerusalem, take a service taxi (20min., NIS2) from just outside Damascus Gate. Arab bus ^18 from the station on Nablus Rd. just north of Damascus Gate (40min., NISI.5) stops to pick up every man, woman and child en route. Buses to Jerusalem leave fromjaffa Rd. in Ramallah, just off Manara Sq., the main traffic circle. The last bus leaves around 5pm, the last service taxi at about 6pm.