Nablus

The descent into Nablus from the surrounding mountains oflfers the only peaceful view of this turbulent city. Known to many Israelis by its biblical name, Sh’khem, Nablus is the today largest city in the West Bank (not counting East Jerusalem) and home to its second-largest university, An-Najafr, many young Palestinians look upon it as a candidate for the intellectual and administrative capital of their unborn nation. Besides its predominantly Muslim population, Nablus is also home to about 480 Samaritans (about two-thirds the total Samaritan population today).

The current city was founded by Titus near the site of Sh’khem in 72 AD as the “New City” of Flavia Neapolis, in honor of his father Flavias Vespasian. Since then, its streets have witnessed religious strife, the crusades, a devastating earthquake in 1927, the British Mandate, Israeli occupation, and, most recently, the intifada.

When you walk off the bus you will be confronted by the bustling business district set in the valley. If you wander around you’ll be asked by Palestinians about what you’re doing and where you’re going. If you walk by Israeli army patrols, their heads will turn in unison, but you shouldn’t stop to talk. Nablus is a potentially dangerous place; consult the security warnings at the beginning of the West Bank section, and avoid going there by yourself, even if you are a man. It is also a very conservative town; modest dress is the code.

After introductions, it is not uncommon for Palestinians to invite you to their homes and possibly offer to show you the intifada. Here demonstrations become a matter of tremendous pride, and no story is complete without a detailed account of months (or years) spent in prison. Perhaps the most rewarding way to spend your time here is to accept the residents’ hospitality and learn something of the life of West Bank Palestinians.