As you exit customs (and sometimes even before), you will likely be approached by individuals who claim to be “tourist agents” or employees of the Ministry of Tourism. They wait for unescorted travelers and, pretending to help you, set you up in their employers’ hotels, which are usually not a credit to the industry. Do not let anyone direct you to a hotel or even a cab; take cabs from the official stand only, which is monitored 24 his. a day by a Tourist Police officer.

All cabs in Cairo are black and white, so it’s useless to try to distinguish the Tourist Police cabs by color; look for the officer wearing a black beret and an arm band. Do not pay more than LE20 for a taxi anywhere downtown. If you arrive late at night, the safest and easiest move is to get a room at one of the reputable hotels at the airport. Most of these hotels are four- and five-star establishments, so be prepared to splurge the first night. The least expensive is the Cairo Airport Hotel (tel. 66 60 74; singles US$47.50, with bath US$35.20; doubles US$59.50, with bath US$69.40).

From die Old Terminal, bus #400 (24 lire., every Mihr., during the day and every hr. late at night, lhr., lOpt) and minibus *27 (24 hrs., infrequent at night, 45min., 50pt) will take you to central Cairo (Tahrir Square) from the rear of the parking lot directly in front of die terminal building. However, only EgyptAir and a few other Middle Eastern airlines use the Old Terminal, and there is no public transport from the New Terminal. Theoretically, a free minibus runs between the two, but it has never been sighted. Since taxi drivers refuse to take you the 2km to the Old Terminal, it’s usually an LE20 taxi ride or nothing.