If your train is full and you’re in a hurry, don’t worry- simply board the train without buying a ticket. The conductor will sell you one on board for a small fine (about LEI.50 between Cairo and Luxor and Aswan). Your larger problem will be rinding a seat or an empty space on the floor. For short trips, such as from Cairo to Alexandria, you may want to avoid the hassle of waiting in the ticket lines for reserved seating-you may find a seat anyway, and the fine for not having a ticket is nominal.

If you miss your train and you’re extremely lucky, you may be issued a ticket on the next train out-even if there are officially no seats available. Never try to bribe a train station official. If you are unsuccessful in securing a seat on the next train,don’t throw your ticket away in despair. It’s often possible to return and exchange tickets (there’s that nominal fee again). If you want to return reserved tickets, go to the stationmaster’s office before the scheduled departure and your money (minus a little) will be refunded.

Finallv women traveling alone should never ride third class; if you have to go this way try to sit with a group of Egyptian women. Even second-class trains can be an alarming experience. Traveling first class to avoid harassment is worth the price.