Prices A brief lesson in Arabic: After minfadlak (please) and sbukran (thank you), the most important word to know is kboaga (kho-AH-ga), because you are one. Kboaga means “tourist,” but is understood locally as “clueless and rich.” No matter how destitute you consider yourself, you are probably wealthy by Egyptian standards. Other than those in hotels and restaurants, most prices are not posted, which means khoagas are charged more than Egyptians. Avoid salesfolk and shops near tourist hubs, and look upon any unsolicited offer of goods or services with grave suspicioneven if told there is no charge.

Agree on a price before you accept anything, and do not pay until you receive the goods. Try to ascertain beforehand how much something is really worth, and pay in exact change. Most importantly, always insist on getting full value, no matter what excuses are offered. Never feel you owe more than the agreed amount no matter how much anyone squawks, and never be afraid to walk away at any time, or to firmly refuse an imitation, however seemingly kind, if you feel you’ll have to pay later.

At official sites, student get discounts on admission of up to 50%, with proper student ID. Shutterbugs are slapped with a photography/videotape fee, usually LE10.

The people who work at ticket kiosks will charge you the correct fee, but the guides who solicit your business at sites antl museums should be ignored; often they will recite a few memorized phrases in English-"mask of Tutankhamon, solid gold, mummy of Tutankhamon, solid gold"-and then expect outlandish remuneration.

Shopping in Egypt is an adventure that requires patience and discretion. For the basics, simply go where the Egyptians go and pay what the Egyptians pay; rare is the department store clerk or pharmacy that thrives by ripping off khoagas. For souvenirs and native sundries, become a cynic. Rare and valuable craftwork is out there- along with pyramid paperweights and fake antiques. Avoid all souvenir shops and kiosks flanking tourist attractions. The bazaars in the cities are chaotic but they are the best places to find authentic woodwork, glassware, textiles and other crafts. The key word is: Bargain. (See Essentials: Money Matters.)

If there is ever a problem with hustlers or rip-off artists, report it to the Tourist Police stationed at every tourist site, transportation centers, and most hotels.