Khan al-khalili

Choffee shop Naguib Mahfouz, 5 AL-Badistante Lanc (tel 903788 or 932262,) 2 blocks west of Al-Hussein Mosque. Expensive but convenient new restaurant in the heart of the Khan. Far from the madding crowds; allegedly a hangout of Nobel laureate and author Naguib Mahfouz. Every night, live music accompanies a Lebanese-style meal; etna (dumplings, LE6.50), shwarma (LE25), kabab or kufta (LE25), tabouli, baba ghanoush, or tahina salads (LE4). Also various exotic fruit drinks (LE3.50-4.50), Minimum charge LE3-50 per person (plus LEU 0 for music). Open daily ll:30am-l :30am, during Ramadan 8am-4am.