Memphis

As late as the 13th century, Arab historians wrote with awe about the remnants of the Old Kingdom capital at Memphis. The brick houses of this city of 500,000 had melted into mud, but many of the stone monuments were not destroyed until much later, when they were pilfered for construction in Cairo.

Only the ancient canal (responsible for the lush vegetation) and some exhibits in the modern museum in the village of Mit-Rahine remain. Near the museum is the famous alabaster sphinx, which probably stood at the south entrance of the Temple of Ptah. (Museum open 8am-5pm in summer, 7:3Oam-4pm in winter.) Admission LE7, students LE3.5O. Photo privileges LE5.) The only reasonable way to get to Memphis from Saqqara or Abu Sir is by taxi; hitchhiking, as always, is risky, especially for women.