Accommodations & Food

The three hotels in Sohag stand in a row across from the train station at the heart of the town’s boisterous mosque scene. With your back to the station, the hotels are, from left to right, the Al-Salaam, the Ramses, and the Andalos. Andalos Hotel (tel. 32 43 28) is perhaps the cleanest of the three, though the bathrooms could be cleaner and you may have to share with a cockroach. Hot water, very loud fans, and rooms with locks. English spoken. Singles LE7, with bath LE9- Doubles LE10.50, with bath LE14.75, with A/C LE23. Breakfast included. Al-Salaam Hotel (tel. 32 33 17) promises A/C in 1994; for now, fans will do. Singles LE5, with bath LE10. Doubles LE8, with bath LE10.

The Ramses Hotel (tel. 32 23 13), marked by a picture of a ship above the door, is cleaner than it looks from the outside. Singles LE5. There is also the tough-to-find and less-than-spotless Youth Hostel (HI) at 5 Port Said St. (tel. 32 43 95). Take a right out of the train station and walk until you reach a square; cross the train tracks, turn right twice, and look on the right. If you’re lost, ask for belt ash-shabab. Grimy bathrooms. Five to a room with fan. Kitchen facilities available. Lockout 10am-2pm. lpm curfew. LE3.10. There are a few kushari places, and Ash-Shalaby restaurant near the train station serves fatty meat in gravy with salad, rice and bread for LE4. Cross the Nile for more upscale environs and tastier meals.