Sights

About 10km northwest of Sohag on the edge of the desert are two of the finest Coptic monuments in Upper Egypt. Deir Amba Shenouda, or the Monastery of St. Shenouda, is also known as the White Monastery after the color of its limestone blocks, many of which originally belonged to a pharaonic temple and feature hieroglyphic inscriptions. The monastery was founded in 400 AD by St. Shenoudi. Much of the nave has been destroyed by earthquake, but a small church occupies the apse. Remove your shoes upon entering the carpeted church within the monastery complex.

You’ll be greeted by a seated Jesus, balancing an eroded globe in his right hand and a Bible in his left. The monastery is especially worth visiting between Jury 5 and August 5, when hordes of Coptic pilgrims descend upon it. During this period, the monastery becomes a living flea market, especially on Thursdays and Fridays. The pilgrims sprint down the steep slopes of the nearby hills, and childless women wrapped in sacks roll down the hills in hopes of obtaining a divine fertility boost. During the pilgrimage period you can visit Deir Amba Shenouda sites from Sohag by minibus for 25pt; at other times, catch a service taxi.

The smaller Deir Amba Bishai (also Deir al-Ahmar, or Red Monastery) is named in Arabic after its founder, St. Bishai, a thief who converted to Christianity and repented through fasting and prayer. Portions of the original red-brick walls from 600 AD still stand within the more modern building. The sanctuary’s main fresco depicts the Last Supper, with another view of Jesus and the apostles in the right apse and Mary on the left. Amba Bishai lies in a village of the same name, 4km up the road from Deir Amba Shenouda. Start walking and try to flag a service taxi (25pt).

The nearby Coptic community of Akhmim, renowned for its cotton weaving, shawls, and batik crafts, has a near-secret treasure. An llm-high white limestone statue of Queen Merit Amon, the daughter of Ramses II, was unearthed here about ten years ago, and has yet to be discovered by tourists. The statue remains remarkably undamaged (admission free; no photos). Take a service taxi to Akhmim from Sohag (about 15min., 25pt) from the stop near the train station (to your right as you exit the station). Akhmim is not used to tourists; you may find yourself uncomfortably surrounded by children. Women especially should go in a group, and ail should be considerate and polite.