Sights

Ifyou’re in Qena for more than an hour, head north to the Nile, about lkm from the main square. The view is spectacular, especially at sunset.

An interesting excursion is to Naqada (na-GA-da), about 30 minutes south of Qena by taxi, where during the fin-de-siede a monk built the Pigeon Palace. This array of brick, mortar pots, and ceramic is home to lO.O(K) pigeons. The birds are about 200m west of the road through Naqada in the midst of the green fields. (LE2 by service taxi from Qena or West Thebes.) Upon crossing the Western Desert, the weary pigeons park here for food, shelter, and the opportunity to be slaughtered. The caretakers will show you around and then bid you good-bye with outstretched palms.

But it’s the remarkably well-preserved remains at Dendera mat you came to see here. Plan to spend at least two hours at this site, as there are stairs to climb, storage spaces to probe, and plenty of wandering around to be done. The Temple of Hathor is one of the few temples where the second floor remains intact; a lenient guide will let you climb to the very top and survey your surroundings.