Scuba divers should not expect bargains in Hurghada: prices are linked to the pocket depth of Europeans, not the cost of kushari. The Amira Diving Center at Beach House offers a full diving course (4-5 days) for US$200. At the end you receive an official certificate. Some diving centers provide only a photo ID; check for signs out front and certification before committing. The running rate around town for one day (2 dives) is US$4O-45 for certified divers. Beginners should expect to pay at least US$60 for an introductory lecture and two dives.

As for the beaches, sand and surf they are not. Beaches in town are unspectacular but convenient, and not far from a decent snorkeling reef; they run north from Geisum Restaurant. The Geisum charges LE5 for a spot in the sun, from where it is an easy liop to the pool at the nearby Sand Beach Hotel, which charges LE5 for use of the pool and the beach. Further along, Shedwan’s pool and beach cost LE10, the same price demanded by Three Corners Village for the use of their cramped facilities.