Youth Hostel (HI), 32 Port Said St., Chatby (tel. and fax 597 5459), just off the corniche. Take an eastbound tram (lOpt) from Raml Station Sq. until you see the robust red and white dome of St. Marks College on the left side. The hostel is on the corniche side. Rooms are drab, but have fans. Bathrooms are not spectacular. Open daily 2-10pm. Strict curfew. LE6.50, members only. Breakfast LEI. Hotel Acropole, 27 Rue de Chambre de Commerce, 5th floor (tel. 80 59 80), 1 block west of Sa’ad Zaghloul Sq., directly behind the Cecil Hotel. One of the best deals in town. Clean, bright and comfortable, though the grimy entrance may lead you to expect otherwise. TV lounge. No private baths. Singles LE15, with view LE20. Doubles LE25. Breakfast included. Fills fast (only 4 singles); reserve ahead. Hotel Triomphe, 26 Rue Chambre de Commerce (tel. 80 75 85), across from the Acropole but lower in quality and cleanliness. Also fills quickly. Singles LE8. Doubles LE15. Triples with bath LE20.

Hotel Marhaba, 10 Ahmed Orabi Sq. (tel. 80 09 57, international 80 95 10), on the northwest side of Orabi Sq. Clean rooms and baths, and bellboys in spiffy uniforms. Busy with tourists; fills quickly. Rooms carpeted, with ceiling fans and TVs. Singles LE26, with bath LE32. Doubles LE37, with bath LE45. Triples LE49, with bath LE60. Breakfast included. Restaurant downstairs (Stella LE7.25, imports LE11.40).

Hotel Philip House, 1 Ibn Basaam St. (tel. 483 5513), on the corniche 4 blocks east of Sa’ad Zaghloul Sq. and directly above the Darwish Restaurant. A warm 11-room auberge with threadbare rugs and pacific views of the Med. Doubles LE15, with view I.E20. Triples LE20.