Restaurant Darwish, on the coraiche, 202 July 26 St. (tel. 482 8938). 4 blocks east of Sa’ad Zaghloul Sq. across from the World Health Organization building. Digest French food among encased fake coral reefs and display windows of future entrees avant la preparation. The adventurous will appreciate the Jarret Dar wish (cooked veaf knuckles, LE12). During Ramadan, try the Macedoine de fruit (a fruit fondue aged for 1 year). Filling meals cost LE10-12. Open daily 24 hrs.

Tfkka Grill (tel. 80 51 14 or 80 51 19), jutting into the Eastern Harbor on the water front near Abu al-Abbas Mosque, 1.5km west of Sa’ad Zaghloul Sq. A bit of a hike but you won’t regret it. Good food, impeccable service, excellent salad bar, a sweeping view of the corniche, and a garden for outdoor eating. Full meals LEO-IT, including the unlimited salad bar and a bottle of mineral water. Liquor served. Open daily lpm-2am.