For dessert the Delices and Trianon patisseries located opposite the corniche in Sa’ad Zaghloul Sq, serve expensive pastries in a setting notably reminiscent of the British occupation. The Samadi Patisserie, next to Tikka Grill, doles out baklava, bessboussa, konafa, and several variations. Cafes line the corniche on both sides of Sa’ad Zaghloul Sq.. along with culinarias where you’ll pay LEIO for a meal of grilled meat or fish. Cheaper, more traditional ahwas are in the neighborhood streets south of the waterfront. Coffee epicures should try the Brazilian Coffee Store, 44 Sa’ad Zaghloul St. (tel. 482 5059), opposite the Book Centre at the Nabi Danial intersection; cappuccino LEI, espresso 75pt (open Sat.-Thurs. 6:30am-llpm).